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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred establishments. However, situated high among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu located in a distant area of north London.

A Surprise Honour

This small Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. This honour has made the family completely surprised.

“I’m completely surprised,” states the proprietor, pointing to his family’s hard graft that led to their modest place achieving such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent quality.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, toastier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning outside its own doors. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this gastronomic triumph.